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A marquise cut diamond is an elongated brilliant cut with two pointed ends and a curved outline, also known as the navette. Look for a length-to-width ratio near 2:1 (about 1.80 to 2.20), a faint rather than dark bow-tie, matching wings and crisp points, and protect both points with V-prongs, a halo or a bezel. Because it spreads its weight across a long outline, a marquise has more face-up area than any other shape of the same carat weight.
What Is a Marquise Cut Diamond?
A marquise cut diamond is a boat-shaped brilliant cut with a curved body and a point at each end. GIA groups it with the brilliant-style fancy shapes and notes that it is also called the navette cut. The Diamond Pro translates navette as "small ship" in French, a reference to the hull-like outline. Modern versions typically have 56 or 58 facets.
The origin story, and why it is a legend
The popular account is that Louis XV of France commissioned a diamond shaped like the lips of Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, whom he made the Marquise de Pompadour. GIA, the International Gem Society and Wikipedia all present this as a legend rather than documented history. What is documented is the timing: Madame de Pompadour lived from 1721 to 1764 and was the king's official chief mistress from 1745 to 1751, so the name fits 18th-century France. The International Gem Society places the shape's mainstream peak in the late 1960s to early 1970s; graduate gemologist Karen Smith of Oliver Smith Jeweler notes a 1990s wave and a revival today.
Anatomy of a Marquise: Points, Wings, Belly and Keel
A marquise has two points, four wings, one belly and a keel line in place of a culet.
- Points: the two tips at each end and the most fragile part of the stone.
- Wings: the four curved sections of outline running from the belly to each point.
- Belly: the widest part, across the center. This is where the bow-tie appears.
- Keel line: the ridge where the pavilion facets meet along the length of the stone. A marquise has no point culet, so a keel line is normal, not a defect.
Some cutters add "French tips," several small facets at each end that The Diamond Pro says make the points less prone to chipping.
Marquise Diamond Ratio: How Long Should It Be?
The classic marquise diamond ratio is about 2:1, and most buyers choose between 1.80 and 2.20. Divide length by width in millimeters: a 5.0 x 2.5 mm stone is 2.00.
| Ratio | Taylor & Hart rating | How it looks |
|---|---|---|
| 1.85 to 2.00 | Excellent | Classic, balanced marquise |
| 1.75 to 1.84 | Very Good | Slightly fuller; a bit sturdier |
| 2.01 to 2.15 | Very Good | Slimmer and more elongated |
| 1.65 to 1.74 or 2.16 to 2.30 | Good | Noticeably chunky, or noticeably thin |
| 1.55 to 1.64 or 2.31 to 2.45 | Fair | Outline starts to look off-shape |
Rare Carat sums it up: above about 2.2 a marquise looks "starved," and below about 1.8 it looks "chubby." For proportions, Taylor & Hart's excellent range is a table of 53% to 63% and a depth of 58% to 62%.
The Marquise Diamond Bow-Tie: How to Judge It
A marquise diamond bow-tie is a dark band across the belly, and almost every marquise has one to some degree. GIA's 2024 study of oval, pear and marquise diamonds found that the elongated outline tends to produce a bow-tie across wide ranges of proportions, and that pavilion main facets running across the belly often strengthen it. Karen Smith attributes a heavy bow-tie to a pavilion cut too deep or too shallow.
GIA's observers disliked bow-ties that are broad, dark or persistent as the stone moves; Du Gemology adds that a slight gray band is not necessarily a problem. In practice:
- Watch a 360-degree video, not just a still photo. A good bow-tie fades and shifts as the stone tilts.
- If the dark band is the first thing you notice face-up, pass.
Symmetry and Outline Faults to Avoid
Outline symmetry matters more in a marquise than in most shapes, because any imbalance is easy to see on a long, narrow stone. GIA recommends Excellent or Very Good symmetry, and the International Gem Society warns that visibly poor symmetry is detrimental to this cut.
- Fat wings: extra weight left in the wings to save carat weight. Du Gemology notes the ratio can look fine on paper while the outline looks bloated, and the price should reflect it.
- Too bulgy or too thin: Karen Smith describes an overly bulgy marquise as looking like an oval with points, and an overly slim one as too narrow.
- Rounded or uneven points: the points should be crisp and line up on one straight axis. A tip-to-tip line should split the stone into mirror halves.
Why GIA Gives No Cut Grade to a Marquise, but IGI Does
GIA reports list polish and symmetry for a marquise but no overall cut grade, while IGI has graded cut on fancy shapes, including marquise, since 2022. GIA's research explains that round-brilliant grading cannot simply be transferred to fancy shapes; a symmetrical marquise alone needs 19 geometric parameters. National Jeweler reports IGI's grade covers nine shapes and combines polish, symmetry, proportions and light return. Either way, have a gemologist review proportions. For grading basics, see our guide to the 4Cs.
Color and Clarity for a Marquise
A marquise needs a little more care on color than on clarity: it shows body color at the points but hides small inclusions well. Rare Carat notes that color looks darker at the shallow tips and suggests G or better around 1 carat and D to F above 1.5 carats. The Diamond Pro adds that I to K can work in yellow gold.
For clarity, the International Gem Society says SI1 or SI2 can be eye-clean in a marquise, and Rare Carat considers VS2 to SI1 a sensible range. The catch is location. Du Gemology points out that the points have dense facet junctions and that cutters sometimes leave inclusions there because prongs will cover them. Check the plot on the report: an inclusion near a point can weaken the tip, so prefer stones whose inclusions sit away from both ends. Grown Leo's loose marquise lab grown diamonds are IGI certified in D to F color and VVS1 to VS2 clarity with an Excellent cut grade.
Face-Up Size: Why a Marquise Looks Bigger
A marquise looks larger than any other shape of the same carat weight. The International Gem Society estimates its face-up area is about 15% larger than a round, compared with about 8% for ovals and pears.
| Carat weight | Marquise (mm) | Round (mm) | Oval (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 ct | 10.0 x 5.0 | 6.4 | 7.7 x 5.7 |
| 1.5 ct | 11.5 x 5.8 | 2 | 3 |
| 2 ct | 12.5 x 6.3 | 8.1 | 9.7 x 7.2 |
| 3 ct | 14.3 x 7.2 | 4 | 5 |
Measurements are approximate figures from Grown Leo's diamond size chart; individual stones vary with ratio and depth.
Best Settings for a Marquise Engagement Ring
The best marquise engagement ring settings cover both points, most often with V-prongs, a halo or a bezel. GIA calls V-prongs essential at each end of a solitaire.
- Six-prong with V-tips: a V-prong at each point plus two prongs at the belly, the classic solitaire choice.
- Halo: a border of small stones softens the tips and adds protection. The International Gem Society notes a slightly visible bow-tie matters less in a halo.
- Bezel: the most coverage for active wearers.
- East-west: setting the stone sideways across the finger is a modern option mentioned by GIA and Taylor & Hart.
- Band thickness: jeweler Bonnie of By Bonnie Jewelry advises against very thin bands of about 1.5 mm for long stones, and Karen Smith notes thin bands can bend and loosen pavé.
Browse marquise lab grown diamond rings or marquise moissanite engagement rings to compare settings.
Wedding Band Pairing
A marquise usually pairs best with a contoured band or a deliberate gap, because its points rarely sit flush against a straight band. Bonnie notes that in her experience most brides prefer a flush set, and that contour bands can accommodate a protruding marquise point. Our curved wedding bands are designed for this kind of fit.
Care and Chipping Risk
A marquise is durable for daily wear, but its points need protection and periodic checks. Rare Carat advises keeping the girdle in the thin to thick range, since an extremely thin girdle at the tips is easier to chip. Have prongs checked about once a year, remove the ring for heavy work, and watch for snagging on clothing, which Bonnie notes is common with long stones.
Marquise vs Oval vs Pear
Choose a marquise for the most length and finger coverage, an oval for a softer look with no points, and a pear for a mix of both.
| Feature | Marquise | Oval | Pear |
|---|---|---|---|
| Typical ratio in the market (GIA) | 1.5 to 2.5 | 1.2 to 1.7 | 1.3 to 1.8 |
| Face-up area vs round (IGS) | About 15% larger | About 8% larger | About 8% larger |
| 1 ct size (Grown Leo chart) | 10.0 x 5.0 mm | 7.7 x 5.7 mm | 8.0 x 5.5 mm |
| Points to protect | Two | None | One |
| Look on the hand | Longest and slimmest | Wider, softer | Teardrop, between the two |
If you like both, the hybrid moval diamond sits between them, and our engagement ring shapes guide compares every option.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best ratio for a marquise cut diamond?
Most guides place the ideal marquise diamond ratio near 2:1, meaning the stone is about twice as long as it is wide. Taylor & Hart rates 1.85 to 2.00 as excellent, and gemologists commonly accept 1.80 to 2.20. Below about 1.75 the stone looks wide and chunky; above about 2.20 it starts to look thin. Within that band, pick the outline you prefer.
Do all marquise diamonds have a bow-tie?
Nearly all marquise diamonds show some bow-tie, a darker band across the widest part of the stone. GIA research found that the elongated outline tends to create one across wide ranges of proportions. The goal is not zero bow-tie but a faint one that shifts as the stone moves. Avoid a broad, dark bow-tie that stays visible from every angle.
Does GIA give marquise diamonds a cut grade?
No. GIA reports for marquise and other fancy shapes list polish and symmetry but no overall cut grade, so you judge proportions, outline and bow-tie yourself. IGI added cut grades for nine fancy shapes, including marquise, in 2022. Its system combines proportion ranges, polish, symmetry and a light return assessment, giving buyers one more data point to compare stones.
Does a marquise diamond look bigger than a round?
Yes. The International Gem Society estimates marquise diamonds have about 15% more face-up area than rounds of the same weight, the most of any shape. On Grown Leo's size chart, a 1 carat marquise measures about 10.0 x 5.0 mm, while a 1 carat round measures about 6.4 mm across. The long outline also makes the finger look slimmer.
Are marquise diamonds more likely to chip?
The two sharp points are the most vulnerable part of a marquise, and GIA notes the shape is more susceptible to chipping. Protect each point with a V-prong, a halo or a bezel, avoid stones with inclusions or a very thin girdle near the tips, and choose a sturdy band. Have a jeweler check the prongs about once a year.
