Pear Shaped Diamond Guide: Ratio, Bow-Tie & Size Chart

A pear shaped diamond is a teardrop-shaped brilliant cut with one rounded end and one point. Most buyers prefer a length-to-width ratio of about 1.45 to 1.75, a faint rather than dark bow-tie across the middle, and a stone whose two halves mirror each other. Traditionally the point faces the fingertip, but either direction is acceptable, and the point should always be protected by a V-prong or bezel.

What Is a Pear Shaped Diamond?

A pear shaped diamond, also called a pear cut or teardrop, combines the rounded end of an oval with the tapered point of a marquise. GIA describes it as a brilliant-style cut, so it uses many triangular and kite-shaped facets to produce sparkle, much like a round brilliant.

The pear is one of the older fancy shapes. The International Gem Society credits the Flemish cutter Lodewyk van Bercken with inventing the scaif, a diamond polishing wheel, in 1475 and with cutting the first pear shaped diamond the same year. Records of his life are sparse (even his birth and death dates are unknown), so the details come largely from later accounts.

Ideal Length-to-Width Ratio for a Pear Shaped Diamond

Most people prefer a pear shaped diamond with a length-to-width ratio between 1.45 and 1.75, according to the International Gem Society. Divide the length in millimeters by the width to get the ratio: a stone measuring 8.0 x 5.5 mm has a ratio of about 1.45.

Ratio	How it looks	Who it suits
Below 1.45	Short and wide	Buyers who want a fuller, rounder teardrop
1.45 to 1.60	Classic, balanced teardrop	Most buyers
1.60 to 1.75	Slimmer and more elongated	Smaller stones and buyers who want a longer look on the finger

The International Gem Society suggests 1.60 to 1.75 for smaller stones, because prongs can make a short, squat pear look triangular. Longer pears also appear larger face-up and can make the finger look slimmer. GIA's shape guide, by contrast, says most pears fall between about 1.3:1 and 1.4:1, so shorter stones are common in the market even though many shoppers prefer longer ones. There is no single correct ratio; it is a matter of taste.

The Bow-Tie Effect

The bow-tie is a dark, bow-tie-shaped area across the middle of a pear shaped diamond, and some degree of it appears in nearly every pear. It also shows up in ovals and marquises because of how their elongated facet patterns reflect light.

GIA studied the effect in its Fall 2024 Gems & Gemology research on oval, pear and marquise diamonds, describing the bow-tie as an area of dark contrast across the width of the stone and confirming that elongation produces it across many proportion combinations. In other words, you cannot avoid it completely, but you can choose a stone where it is light and changes as the stone moves.

Acceptable: a faint shadow that shifts and breaks up when you tilt the stone.
Avoid: a broad, dark band that stays in place in every view. The International Gem Society's advice is blunt: if the center does not sparkle, the stone is not worth the money.
How to check: the bow-tie is not listed on a GIA report, so watch a 360-degree video or view the stone in person.

IGI began issuing cut grades for nine fancy shapes, including the pear, in 2022. According to JCK, its process specifically checks pears for a bow-tie and for a rounded base and even shoulders, so an IGI cut grade gives a useful first filter.

Symmetry: The Most Important Check

A well-cut pear looks balanced on both sides of an imaginary line drawn from the point to the center of the rounded end. The International Gem Society calls symmetry especially important for this shape and suggests checking the outline like this:

Point: sharp and centered, lined up with the middle of the rounded end.
Shoulders: the upper curves on each side should be evenly rounded, not flat or bulging.
Wings: the sides leading to the point should curve gently and match each other.
Rounded end: close to a semicircle, not flat or squared off.

Bulging shoulders or wings add carat weight you pay for but cannot see face-up. Note that this visual balance is different from the "symmetry" grade on a lab report, which refers to facet alignment; the International Gem Society considers a report symmetry grade of Good or better sufficient for pears.

Clarity and Color for Pears

Because the pear is a brilliant cut, it hides inclusions better than step cuts such as the emerald, but it shows color more than a round. The International Gem Society notes that color tends to concentrate in the point, and recommends going one color grade higher for stones of 2 carats and above, along with VS1 or VS2 clarity at that size. Avoid large or dark inclusions near the point, where they could also weaken the stone.

For context, Grown Leo's IGI certified loose pear shaped lab grown diamonds are D to F color and VVS1 to VS2 clarity with an Excellent cut grade.

Pear Shaped Diamond Size Chart (0.5 to 5 Carats)

A 1 carat pear shaped diamond measures about 8.0 x 5.5 mm face-up, and a 2 carat about 10.0 x 7.0 mm, based on Grown Leo's size chart. Actual sizes vary with each stone's ratio and depth.

Carat weight	Approximate face-up size (length x width)
0.5 ct	6.3 x 4.4 mm
0.75 ct	7.3 x 5.0 mm
1 ct	8.0 x 5.5 mm
1.25 ct	8.6 x 5.9 mm
1.5 ct	9.2 x 6.3 mm
1.75 ct	9.6 x 6.6 mm
2 ct	10.0 x 7.0 mm
2.5 ct	10.8 x 7.5 mm
3 ct	11.5 x 8.0 mm
3.5 ct	12.1 x 8.4 mm
4 ct	12.6 x 8.8 mm
4.5 ct	13.2 x 9.1 mm
5 ct	13.5 x 9.4 mm

Pears look large for their weight because of their length. Compare them with other shapes on the diamond size chart and on-hand simulator, or estimate cost with the lab grown diamond price calculator. If you are choosing moissanite, remember that it is less dense than diamond (specific gravity 3.22 versus 3.52), so the same millimeter size weighs fewer carats.

Which Way Should You Wear a Pear Shaped Ring?

Traditionally, a pear shaped engagement ring is worn with the point facing the fingertip, which elongates the look of the finger. Wearing the point toward the wrist is less common but entirely acceptable, and some people prefer it for comfort or for how it sits next to a wedding band.

Point to the fingertip: the classic orientation and the way most pear rings are photographed.
Point to the wrist: a personal choice; it changes which end of the stone sits next to your band.
East-west: the stone is set sideways across the finger for a modern look.

Whichever direction you choose, try the ring with your intended wedding band, because flipping the pear changes how the two rings meet.

Best Settings for a Pear Shaped Diamond

The best setting for a pear protects its point. GIA notes that a prong or bezel setting is essential to keep the tip from chipping, and a V-shaped prong over the point is the most common solution.

Solitaire: shows off the outline. The International Gem Society notes most pears use five or six prongs, with a V-prong at the tip.
Halo: a popular choice that emphasizes the teardrop silhouette and can make the center look larger. See halo moissanite engagement rings.
Three-stone: GIA lists the pear as suitable for solitaire, halo and three-stone designs.
Bezel: a full metal rim covers the point completely, which suits active lifestyles.

Shop pear lab grown diamond rings or pear moissanite engagement rings, offered in US ring sizes 4 to 12. Use the ring size chart to confirm your size.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best ratio for a pear shaped diamond?

Most buyers prefer a pear shaped diamond with a length-to-width ratio between 1.45 and 1.75, according to the International Gem Society. Around 1.50 to 1.60 gives a classic, balanced teardrop, while 1.60 to 1.75 looks slimmer and suits smaller stones. There is no single correct number, so choose the outline you find most attractive on the hand.

What is the bow-tie effect in a pear shaped diamond?

The bow-tie is a darker, bow-tie-shaped area across the middle of a pear, oval or marquise diamond. GIA research confirms that elongated shapes produce it across many proportions, so nearly every pear has some. Look for a faint shadow that shifts as the stone moves and avoid a broad dark band that stays visible from every angle.

Which way should a pear shaped engagement ring point?

Traditionally the point of a pear shaped engagement ring faces the fingertip, which makes the finger look longer. Wearing it pointing toward the wrist is less common but perfectly acceptable. Some people also choose an east-west setting with the stone sideways. Try your chosen direction with your wedding band, since flipping the stone changes how the rings sit together.

How big is a 1 carat pear shaped diamond?

Based on Grown Leo's size chart, a 1 carat pear shaped diamond measures about 8.0 x 5.5 mm face-up, and a 2 carat about 10.0 x 7.0 mm. Because pears are elongated, they tend to look larger on the finger than a round of the same weight. Exact dimensions depend on each stone's ratio and depth.

What setting protects a pear shaped diamond best?

A setting that covers the point protects a pear shaped diamond best. GIA notes that a prong or bezel setting is essential to keep the tip from chipping. Most pear solitaires use a V-shaped prong at the point, often with five or six prongs in total, while a full bezel gives the most coverage for active wearers.

Does a pear shaped diamond hide inclusions?

A pear is a brilliant cut, so its many facets hide inclusions better than step cuts like the emerald or Asscher. It does tend to show color in the point, so the International Gem Society suggests a higher color grade for larger stones. Avoid dark inclusions near the tip, where they are more visible and could weaken the stone.

Pear Shaped Diamond Guide: Ratio, Bow-Tie, Sizes and Settings